{"id":5099,"date":"2018-10-21T16:29:04","date_gmt":"2018-10-21T14:29:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/moked.it\/international\/?p=5099"},"modified":"2019-05-28T17:37:02","modified_gmt":"2019-05-28T15:37:02","slug":"italics-jamie-oliver-gets-schooled-jewish-italian-bubbe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/moked.it\/international\/2018\/10\/21\/italics-jamie-oliver-gets-schooled-jewish-italian-bubbe\/","title":{"rendered":"ITALICS Jamie Oliver Gets Schooled By a Jewish Italian Bubbe"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/moked.it\/international\/files\/2014\/04\/italics.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/moked.it\/international\/files\/2014\/04\/italics.png\" alt=\"italics\" width=\"206\" height=\"92\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-47\" \/><\/a>By <strong>Rachel Myerson*<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>If you haven\u2019t been watching Jamie Oliver\u2019s current television show, \u201cJamie Cooks Italy,\u201d or at least read the accompanying cookbook, \u201cJamie Cooks Italy \u2014 From the Heart of the Italian Kitchen,\u201d do so immediately. The Naked Chef has, happily, given all the healthy eating\/culinary cultural appropriation stuff a rest and returned to promoting wholesome comfort food with the help of adorable Italian grandmothers who constantly critique his technique while pinching his cheeks affectionately.<\/p>\n<p>In the \u201cTuscany\u201d episode, Jamie visited Pitigliano \u2014 a walled, hilltop town coined \u201cLittle Jerusalem\u201d due to its once-flourishing Jewish community and the old city-esque cobbled, narrow streets of its ancient Jewish quarter.<\/p>\n<p>Pitagliano\u2019s Jewish population peaked in the early 19th century, when it accounted for some 20 percent of the town\u2019s inhabitants. But after Italy was unified in 1861, Pitagliano Jews began immigrating to larger cities with greater economic promise. The town\u2019s dwindling community decreased further after Italy\u2019s Racial Laws were implemented in 1938, which restricted Jewish civil rights and prohibited Jews from education and public office.<\/p>\n<p>Those who remained were forced to hide \u2014 often in the surrounding farmland, aided by the local population. After the war, only 30 Jews returned to Pitigliano, and these days there\u2019s less than a handful left. The Jewish quarter is now a museum, meticulously restored so that those visiting the synagogue, communal kosher oven and mikvah can imagine Jewish life during Little Jerusalem\u2019s heyday.<\/p>\n<p>Oliver does just that, exclaiming, \u201cOh, the stories these walls could tell\u201d in his distinctive Essex twang as he walks to the synagogue to meet nonna Elana, one of Pitigliano\u2019s remaining Jews. At 87, Elena is bright-eyed but frail after a recent fall, so instead of cooking her mother\u2019s stuffed artichokes alongside Jamie, she explains the method over coffee and sends him away to have a go. Jamie dutifully stuffs the artichokes with ground beef seasoned with parsley, basil and a pinch of dry chili, then breads and fries them before braising in a sweet tomato sauce. After a nap, Elena is ready to taste his efforts and nods approvingly.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cYou\u2019re a very good chef,\u201d she says with a bubbe-like kvell.<\/p>\n<p>What Jamie missed in his quest to discover \u201cthe spiritual home of Jewish-Italian cooking\u201d is a Jewish delicacy unique to Pitigliano called sfratto \u2014 a cookie filled with honey and walnuts shaped like a stick. The cookie\u2019s shape and name \u2014 sfratto means \u201ceviction\u201d \u2014 recall the treatment of the Jews under Medici rule in the 1620s, when officers wielding sticks would evict families from their homes and move them to the Jewish ghetto. Years later it became tradition to serve sfratti on Rosh Hashanah as a symbol to ward off any future evictions, which inspired Pitigliano\u2019s Christian neighbors, who served the cookies at weddings to keep any marital conflict at bay.<\/p>\n<p>The history of Pitigliano\u2019s Jews exhibits the classic tropes of communities worldwide, alternating between being beloved and persecuted, and then often departed. Their food, however, lives on, and while we don\u2019t need Jamie Oliver\u2019s encouragement to continue stuffing artichokes and rolling sfratto, it\u2019s nice to know we have it.<\/p>\n<p><em>*This article appeared in Nosher on October 18, 2018.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Rachel Myerson* If you haven\u2019t been watching Jamie Oliver\u2019s current television show, \u201cJamie Cooks Italy,\u201d or at least read the accompanying cookbook, \u201cJamie Cooks Italy \u2014 From the Heart of the Italian Kitchen,\u201d do so immediately. The Naked Chef has, happily, given all the healthy eating\/culinary cultural appropriation stuff a rest and returned to&hellip; <a class=\"more\" rel=\"bookmark\" href=\"https:\/\/moked.it\/international\/2018\/10\/21\/italics-jamie-oliver-gets-schooled-jewish-italian-bubbe\/\">leggi&nbsp;<i class=\"fa fa-chevron-circle-right\"><\/i><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4296,"featured_media":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7613],"tags":[],"position":[],"class_list":["post-5099","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-italian-word-of-the-week"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.0 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>ITALICS Jamie Oliver Gets Schooled By a Jewish Italian Bubbe - Pagine Ebraiche International<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/moked.it\/international\/2018\/10\/21\/italics-jamie-oliver-gets-schooled-jewish-italian-bubbe\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"ITALICS Jamie Oliver Gets Schooled By a Jewish Italian Bubbe - Pagine Ebraiche International\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Rachel Myerson* If you haven\u2019t been watching Jamie Oliver\u2019s current television show, \u201cJamie Cooks Italy,\u201d or at least read the accompanying cookbook, \u201cJamie Cooks Italy \u2014 From the Heart of the Italian Kitchen,\u201d do so immediately. 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